Stop the engine and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle to a steady level. Check the level with the motorcycle perfectly vertical and with the engine warm (but not running).

Change the oil when the engine is hot (but with the engine stopped). In these conditions the oil is more fluid and will drain more rapidly and completely.

Remove any metallic deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug (3). Refit the drain plug complete with gasket (A) to the sump.

Tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Remove the oil sump filter cartridge (4) using service tool 88713.2906.

Fit a new cartridge (4) using service tool 88713.2906: lubricate the seal with engine oil.

It is advisable to fill the filter cartridge (4) with engine oil before installing it: this enables the recommended oil level to be maintained without topping up.

Screw the filter into place and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings), using service tool 88713.2906.

Replace the pick-up filter (7), fit the seal (5) to the plug (6) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Remove the filler cap (2) and fill with oil of the recommended type (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) up to the MAX line in the sight glass.

Check for oil leaks. Check that the oil pressure light on the instrument panel switches off a few seconds after the engine starts. If not, switch off the engine and trace the fault.

In order to check the valve clearances, it is necessary to gain access to the four valve covers on the cylinder heads and then remove the parts listed below.

Remove the inspection cover on the alternator side of the crankcase, insert the handle of service tool 88713.0123 in the holes of the alternator-side crankcase cover in order to rotate the crankshaft to bring the valve being checked to its rest position.

With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between the opening rocker and the opening shim to measure the clearance.

With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between the closing rocker arm and the closing shim to measure the clearance:

If the measured clearances are outside the prescribed limits, replace the opening and/or closing shim, as described in the paragraph “Removal of the rocker arms, shims and valves” (Sect. N 4.4), with one of suitable height to obtain the specified clearance.

Replacement opening shims are available in sizes ranging from 1.8 to 3.45 mm, while closing shims are available in sizes from 2.2 to 4.5. Each shim is marked with its size.

The air filter must be renewed at the intervals indicated in the “Routine maintenance table” (Sect. D 3).

A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up of deposits on the spark plugs. Do not run the engine without the air filter. This would draw foreign material present in the air into the engine and could damage the engine.

Install the cartridge (3) in its housing (A) in the airbox cover and replace all the removed parts; tighten the bolts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings): in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6.

Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. In addition, it is very harmful in contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant running water.

Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (2) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container placed on the floor.

Tighten the bleed valve (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and top up the reservoir fluid level.

Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (2) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container placed on the floor.

Tighten the bleed valve (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and top up the reservoir fluid level.

Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. In addition, it is very harmful in contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant running water.

If you do not have a bleeder available, attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) or (5) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container of old brake fluid placed on the floor.

Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. In addition, it is very harmful in contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant running water.

Fill the reservoirs (A) and (B) with the recommended fluid (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) from a previously unopened container.

During the following operation, the fluid level must remain topped up at all times. The end of the transparent plastic tubing must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.

Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the tube is completely free of air bubbles.

Tighten the bleed valve (4) or (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

If you do not have a brake bleeder available, connect a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve as outlined in the draining procedure.

Open the bleed valve (4) or (5) by a 1/4 turn and operate the brake lever (or pedal) several times until the fluid starts to emerge from the bleed valve.

Tighten the bleed valve (4) or (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings). Replace the dust cap.

Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. In addition, it is very harmful in contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant running water.

Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (2) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container placed on the floor.

Tighten the bleed valve (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and top up the reservoir fluid level.

Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact, wash the affected area with abundant running water.

If you do not have a bleeding tool available, attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (2) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container of old clutch fluid placed on the floor.

Refit the clutch slave cylinder and tighten the retaining bolts (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Tighten the bleed valve to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings). Replace the dust cap.

Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact, wash the affected area with abundant running water.

Fill the reservoir with the recommended fluid (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) from a previously unopened container.

During the following operation, the fluid level must remain topped up at all times. The end of the transparent plastic tubing must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.

Open the bleed valve (2) and pump with the bleeding tool. Make sure that the reservoir level does not fall below the MIN mark.

If you do not have a bleeding tool available, connect a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (2) as outlined in the draining procedure.

Open the bleed valve (2) a 1/4 turn and operate the clutch lever several times until the fluid starts to emerge from the bleed valve (2).

Tighten the bleed valve (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and replace the dust cap.

Fill up to 3 mm above the MIN level mark on the reservoir.

Excessive handlebar play or the forks shaking in the steering head indicate that the play in the steering head bearings requires adjustment. Proceed as follows.

Unscrew the four bolts (1), remove the single clamp (2) and withdraw the handlebar (3) from the top yoke, positioning it out of the way so it does not hinder subsequent operations.

Using service tool no. 88713.1058, turn the nut (6) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Tighten all previously loosened bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Reposition the handlebar, fit the clamp (2) and tighten the four clamp bolts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) in the sequence 1-2-3-4-1-2, as shown in the figure.

To adjust the span, hold the lever (1) fully forward away from the handlebar and turn the adjuster (2) to one of the four preset positions: position 1 corresponds to the maximum distance between lever and grip, while position 4 corresponds to the minimum distance.

When the clutch lever (1) is operated, drive from the engine to the gearbox and the rear wheel is disengaged. Correct use of the clutch lever is very important in all riding situations, especially when moving off.

Place the motorcycle on its sidestand and measure the freeplay on the bottom run of the chain in correspondence with the front end of the lower chain guard. Press down on the chain and release it, and check that the distance between the edge of the aluminium swingarm and the centre of the chain pin is 37 to 39 mm, as indicated on the label on the swingarm.

loosen the nuts (1) that secure the chain guard (2) to the support bracket in order to access and loosen the bolts (3) securing the rear hub to the swingarm.

Rotate the eccentric hub to obtain the correct chain tension. Rotate the hub clockwise to tighten the chain or anti-clockwise to slacken it (as viewed from chain side of the bike).

Lubricate the undersides of the heads and the threads of the bolts (3) with the recommended grease, then gradually tighten them to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) in the sequence 1-2-1.

Tighten the nuts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and refit the rear wheel (Sect. G 4, Refitting the rear wheel).

Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It can also be very harmful if it comes into contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact, wash the affected area with abundant running water.

On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the customer that the front brake must be used gently for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.

Check that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir is above the MIN mark. If necessary, top up as follows. Turn the handlebar so that the reservoir is level.

Remove the bolts (1) and remove the front brake calipers from the forks. Check that the wear indicator groove (A) in the friction material of the pads (4) is visible.

Remove the cotter pin (1) (on the inner side of the caliper) from the pad retaining pin (2). Withdraw the pad retaining pin (2) towards the outside.

Insert the new pads and clip (3). Fit the retaining pin (2) from the outer side and secure it with the cotter pin (1), positioning the lip (A) so that it faces the wheel.

Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads are bedded in against the disc by the force of the brake fluid. Check that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir is between the MIN and MAX marks. If not, unscrew the reservoir cover (4) and top up with the recommended brake fluid.

If it proves difficult to change the brake pads, first remove the caliper from the motorcycle (Sect. G 4, Removal of the rear wheel).

As the brake calipers are components of vital importance to the safety of the motorcycle, refer to the instructions in Section G 3, Removal of the front brake system, Section G 6, Removal of the rear brake system, and in particular, on reassembly, take care to tighten the caliper bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

The throttle cable should have freeplay of 2 to 4 mm (measured in terms of rotation of the twistgrip) in all steering positions.

Adjust travel of the cold start control cable by turning the control lever on the handlebar to its maximum position and checking that plate (4) is located against the travel limit stop.

The condition of the outer throttle cables should be checked at regular intervals. The outer cables should show no signs of kinking or cracking.

Operate the control to check that the inner cable slides smoothly inside the outer cable: if you feel excessive resistance or stiffness, renew the cable.

The position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals in relation to the footrests can be adjusted to suit the preferred riding position.

Turn the pedal travel adjustment bolt (6) until the pedal is in the desired position: the standard position is shown in the above drawing.

Tighten the locknut (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Operate the pedal by hand and check that there is approximately 1.5 to 2 mm of free travel before the brake begins to operate.

The adjuster (1) located on the right-hand side, where the lower end of the shock absorber is attached to the swingarm, controls rebound damping.

Turn the adjuster (1) clockwise to stiffen the damping H and anti-clockwise to soften it S.

To adjust the spring preload, unscrew the upper adjuster nut (3) using a pin wrench. Screw the adjuster nut (3) in or out to respectively increase or reduce the pre-load.

To turn the preload adjuster nuts, use only a specific tool and take care, otherwise the wrench pins may slip off the nut. This could injure your hands. Never use a wrench with a too small pin or with a too short handle.

Standard length of the preloaded spring on the shock absorber with the rear wheel raised off the ground: 166±1.5 mm.

If the motorcycle is to be ridden with a pillion rider and luggage, we recommend setting the rear shock absorber spring preload to the maximum to ensure the best handling and proper ground clearance at all times. It may also be necessary to adjust the rebound damping accordingly.